The prospect of Midnight Mass at St Just in Roseland – a 13th-century church in semi-tropical gardens that Betjeman described as the ‘most beautiful churchyard on earth’ – would be reason enough to spend Christmas in nearby St Mawes. Mass is preceded by carols and followed by stockings for all, the King speaks on a big screen in the cinema, and on Boxing Day you can walk along the Carrick Roads – the estuary of the River Fal – by way of a castle built by Henry VIII.

On Christmas Day, a roaring fire welcomes guests, while the sitting room table groans under the weight of cheese, mince pies and panettone. We usually receive a visit by Father Christmas.

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